In 2005, a visual artist and an anthropologist teamed up for an unusual journey. They spent many months travelling through Afghanistan and neighbouring countries trying to understand and document the thrills and pleasures of recreational travel in conflict zones.  The result is a fascinating, funny and idiosyncratic book that offers a unique insight into this growing tourist phenomenon.

‘Kafkanistan’  is best viewed as a kind of ‘road’ book, following the standard plot of a journey in which the heroes meet and confront a variety of obstacles and challenges.  Throughout the book we see the two protagonists, Kartunwallah and Smileywallah, dressed as locals attempting to integrate themselves into the local culture and reconcile their own pre-conceptions to the actual experiences of the people and the country.  The result, though often extremely funny, not only offers a rare insight into the everyday culture and customs in and around Afghanistan, it also identifies some of the absurdities that have arisen since the infiltration of Western tourism into this area of conflict.

The book is rich in images and the writing, a mixture of dialogue, diary, interviews and facts entertains and informs in equal measure.  The ridiculousness of the two characters with their preconceived Western attitudes, in search of adventure and insight seems, at times naïve but ‘Kafkanistan’ unfolds itself to the reader on many levels, as physical events and perceptions blend together with preconceptions.   The mixture of fear and fascination that is so attractive to war tourists, often fuelled by media outpourings of violence and oppression, is countered by interviews which highlight the distorted reasons that travellers give for their adventures.

From the smiling face of Miss Canada, resplendent with crown, disappearing behind a burqa. to the search for and discovery of the rare and mysterious wolf droppings or on the trail of darker pursuits related to the making and firing of firearms, we are treated to a blend of anthropology and visual art that serves to undermine Western pre-conceptions about this part of the world.  ‘Kafkanistan’  is not only a pleasure to look at, it provides a real insight into the distorted motivations that appear to be the main impetus for tourist voyeurism.

Carol Hudson
Senior Lecturer
The Faculty of the Arts.
Thames Valley University

Kafkanistan by Lukas Birk & Sean Foley - Publishing date March 2008

Paperback 234 pages with more than 300 photos and illustrations + free Film- DVD containing two films and special features . ISBN 978-3-200-01130-4